Tree Service FAQS
1. What is the difference between an Arborist and a Certified Arborist?
Definition: Arboriculture is the art, science, technology and business of tree care. Arboriculture is practiced by arborists. Arborists are trained to promote tree health, discern tree problems and take measures to correct them.
Definition (2): Arborists are professionals who practice arboriculture. Certified arborists are accredited by the International Society of Arboriculture.
ISA Certified Arborist - Professional arborists that have a minimum of three years’
experience in some aspect of tree care and have passed an exam developed by an international
panel of experts. The exam extensively covers every aspect of tree care and the individuals
must have an acceptable level of knowledge in all areas of arboriculture.
2. How can I tell if my tree(s) need help?
Unusual changes in any tree’s appearance can be an indication of problems. If you notice limbs and/or branches breaking, leaf-drop, wilting or color changes (not seasonal), oozing sap, mushrooms at base or trunk, and stature shift (leaning/tilting), a Certified Arborist should be contacted.
3. Why should trees be pruned?
If a tree or any part of it poses a hazard call ASAP! Hazards include boughs hitting roof, power or phone lines, trunks with cracks/splits. Otherwise, all trees need dead wood removed to promote healthy canopies. For complete details, see - ISA Trees Are Good
4. When is the best time to prune?
Most trees can be pruned in the winter during dormancy, to create a vigorous burst of new growth in the spring. Some species, such as maples, walnuts, and birches, may “bleed” when the sap begins to flow. This is not harmful, and will cease when the tree leafs out. Summer pruning is for corrective purposes. Limbs that are defective, too heavy, or dead should be removed at this time. Uplifting can be done during the summer also. Fall is the best time for planting new trees, and to fertilize those you already have.
5. What do I do if my tree is looking “sick”?
Contact an arborist immediately to evaluate the tree, identify problems, and determine a course of treatment.
6. What is a Certified Arborist’s Report?
An Arborist’s Report is required by a city or municipality to evaluate the trees on or near a site, before a building permit can be issued, or construction of a project can begin.
7. What is mulching, and what are the benefits?
Mulching refers to covering the soil area around plants, shrubs, or trees with organic compost or shredded or chipped bark or wood, to increase moisture retention and reduce compaction in the soil, discourage the growth of weeds, and increase nutrient levels.Nutrient levels are increased by direct leaching or decomposition of the mulch; moisture is conserved because mulch reduces evaporation from the soil surface; mulch insulates soil so that it is cooler in summer and warmer in winter, which also promotes the growth of mycorrhizae. Soil compaction is reduced because the protective mulch layer minimizes rain and sprinkler impact on the soil surface, and it disperses the weight of vehicles and people. Mulch should be spread evenly over the soil, as close to the drip-line as possible (or over the entire surface of a planting bed), taking care to keep it at least six inches away from trunks of trees, and crown areas of plants and shrubs, to minimize the chance of crown-rot.
8. Why should I erect a protective fence prior to a construction project?
Sturdy protective fencing, erected as close to the drip-line of a tree as possible, isolates the tree and prevents the root area from having construction equipment and materials piled up there.
9. What are the benefits of protective fencing?
Protective fencing provides a physical barrier to traffic within the protected area, which helps prevent soil compaction, and also prevents large equipment from physically impacting and damaging the tree. It also prevents stockpiling of soil around the trunk, which can cause crown-rot and root fungus.
10. Should I consider uplifting and/or pruning trees for equipment access?
Trees in a construction zone should be pruned or uplifted, both to make the construction site safe and to prevent damage to the limbs due to impact from construction equipment.
11. What is root pruning, how is it done, and why is it necessary?
Root pruning is similar to pruning branches, and is done when roots are infringing on an area where construction is to be done, or when they are causing damage or safety problems to sidewalks, driveways, streets, and the like. When it is necessary to prune roots, cuts should be made with a pruning saw, cleanly, without any slant. They should be made 6-12” closer to the tree than the construction limit. A callus will form about the cut, and new roots will generate from the callus. A Certified Arborist or Certified tree worker, ie: a trained professional, should complete any root pruning work that is necessary.
12. How should damaged bark or trunk wounds be treated?
For damaged bark along the trunk or major limbs, loose bark should be removed. Jagged edges may be cut away with a sharp knife, taking care not to cut into living tissues.
Definition: Arboriculture is the art, science, technology and business of tree care. Arboriculture is practiced by arborists. Arborists are trained to promote tree health, discern tree problems and take measures to correct them.
Definition (2): Arborists are professionals who practice arboriculture. Certified arborists are accredited by the International Society of Arboriculture.
ISA Certified Arborist - Professional arborists that have a minimum of three years’
experience in some aspect of tree care and have passed an exam developed by an international
panel of experts. The exam extensively covers every aspect of tree care and the individuals
must have an acceptable level of knowledge in all areas of arboriculture.
2. How can I tell if my tree(s) need help?
Unusual changes in any tree’s appearance can be an indication of problems. If you notice limbs and/or branches breaking, leaf-drop, wilting or color changes (not seasonal), oozing sap, mushrooms at base or trunk, and stature shift (leaning/tilting), a Certified Arborist should be contacted.
3. Why should trees be pruned?
If a tree or any part of it poses a hazard call ASAP! Hazards include boughs hitting roof, power or phone lines, trunks with cracks/splits. Otherwise, all trees need dead wood removed to promote healthy canopies. For complete details, see - ISA Trees Are Good
4. When is the best time to prune?
Most trees can be pruned in the winter during dormancy, to create a vigorous burst of new growth in the spring. Some species, such as maples, walnuts, and birches, may “bleed” when the sap begins to flow. This is not harmful, and will cease when the tree leafs out. Summer pruning is for corrective purposes. Limbs that are defective, too heavy, or dead should be removed at this time. Uplifting can be done during the summer also. Fall is the best time for planting new trees, and to fertilize those you already have.
5. What do I do if my tree is looking “sick”?
Contact an arborist immediately to evaluate the tree, identify problems, and determine a course of treatment.
6. What is a Certified Arborist’s Report?
An Arborist’s Report is required by a city or municipality to evaluate the trees on or near a site, before a building permit can be issued, or construction of a project can begin.
7. What is mulching, and what are the benefits?
Mulching refers to covering the soil area around plants, shrubs, or trees with organic compost or shredded or chipped bark or wood, to increase moisture retention and reduce compaction in the soil, discourage the growth of weeds, and increase nutrient levels.Nutrient levels are increased by direct leaching or decomposition of the mulch; moisture is conserved because mulch reduces evaporation from the soil surface; mulch insulates soil so that it is cooler in summer and warmer in winter, which also promotes the growth of mycorrhizae. Soil compaction is reduced because the protective mulch layer minimizes rain and sprinkler impact on the soil surface, and it disperses the weight of vehicles and people. Mulch should be spread evenly over the soil, as close to the drip-line as possible (or over the entire surface of a planting bed), taking care to keep it at least six inches away from trunks of trees, and crown areas of plants and shrubs, to minimize the chance of crown-rot.
8. Why should I erect a protective fence prior to a construction project?
Sturdy protective fencing, erected as close to the drip-line of a tree as possible, isolates the tree and prevents the root area from having construction equipment and materials piled up there.
9. What are the benefits of protective fencing?
Protective fencing provides a physical barrier to traffic within the protected area, which helps prevent soil compaction, and also prevents large equipment from physically impacting and damaging the tree. It also prevents stockpiling of soil around the trunk, which can cause crown-rot and root fungus.
10. Should I consider uplifting and/or pruning trees for equipment access?
Trees in a construction zone should be pruned or uplifted, both to make the construction site safe and to prevent damage to the limbs due to impact from construction equipment.
11. What is root pruning, how is it done, and why is it necessary?
Root pruning is similar to pruning branches, and is done when roots are infringing on an area where construction is to be done, or when they are causing damage or safety problems to sidewalks, driveways, streets, and the like. When it is necessary to prune roots, cuts should be made with a pruning saw, cleanly, without any slant. They should be made 6-12” closer to the tree than the construction limit. A callus will form about the cut, and new roots will generate from the callus. A Certified Arborist or Certified tree worker, ie: a trained professional, should complete any root pruning work that is necessary.
12. How should damaged bark or trunk wounds be treated?
For damaged bark along the trunk or major limbs, loose bark should be removed. Jagged edges may be cut away with a sharp knife, taking care not to cut into living tissues.
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